Living on the Côte d’Azur, you quickly discover that many of the
familiar urban myths just don’t hold up. One of the biggest
misconceptions is that behind all the glamour and prestige, there’s
little room for empathy, compassion, or community.
The reality couldn’t be more different.
Take
World AIDS Day, for example. Across the region, people are marking the
day with sincerity and solidarity—honouring the memory of those we’ve
lost, and supporting those who continue to fight.
Since the inception of the charity, many of us have been fortunate where we can to support the meaningful work of Fight AIDS Monaco.
The organization plays a vital role in supporting those with HIV and
AIDS while also honouring the memory of those lost, including through
the creation of memorial quilts—carefully sewn by volunteers and
dedicated supporters. Their efforts continue to embody compassion,
remembrance, and community.
One of the largest gatherings of community members came together yesterday in support of H.S.H. Princess Stéphanie’s charity, Fight AIDS Monaco,
which celebrates its 21st anniversary this year. The occasion included
the unveiling of memorial quilts created by members of the charity to
honour those who have lost their lives to AIDS, in observance of World
AIDS Day.
Held at the Oceanographic Museum, the event welcomed Princess
Stéphanie, her daughter Camille Gottlieb, and Monegasque dignitaries, as
Fight AIDS Monaco presented its memorial quilts for the 14th
consecutive year.
Both poignant and heartfelt, the quilts serve as
a powerful reminder of the devastating impact of AIDS. On Friday, the
association presented 8 of its 14 meticulously crafted pieces, each
requiring an average of 170 hours to complete.
The quilts, viewed as powerful symbols of hope, draw inspiration from
the AIDS Memorial Quilt movement that began in San Francisco in 1985.
This global initiative honours those who have lost their lives to AIDS
through handcrafted fabric panels. Christophe Glasser, Director of Fight
AIDS Monaco, highlighted this important connection in his address.
Fight
AIDS Monaco is a non-profit NGO founded by H.S.H. Princess Stéphanie in
July 2004. Confronted with the psychological, financial, and emotional
challenges faced by people living with HIV—along with the discrimination
many experience daily—Princess Stéphanie committed herself to
supporting them in their fight for dignity, health, and inclusion.
As Princess Stéphanie has stated: “I
join all those who are fighting HIV in their own lives. I encourage
everyone to be screened, to protect themselves, and to thank anyone who
devotes their time and money to the mobilization against AIDS.”
Each
year, this event is both a remembrance and a celebration of compassion.
It honours those who have passed due to HIV/AIDS, while also reflecting
the strength of a community united in support, awareness, and hope.
This year’s World AIDS Day was no different.
Fight AIDS Monaco
continues its mission through the dedication of its board members, a
small but committed team of employees, and many volunteers, working
alongside Princess Stéphanie to raise awareness, promote prevention, and
fund vital services throughout Monaco. The organization is supported by
a government grant as well as private donations.
To support their work or to donate, please contact Fight AIDS Monaco.
The Riviera—sunlit beaches, perfumed hillsides, pastel palaces—feels
timeless. Yet its glamour was not inevitable. It was manufactured
through ambition, tourism, art, real estate, and sometimes scandal. To
really understand this coast, you have to look past postcards and myths
and examine the people, politics, illusions and reinventions that shaped
it. The best books on the subject trace that evolution in vivid
detail—sometimes beautiful, sometimes harsh.
The Riviera’s Reinvention: From Remote Coast to Elite Playground
For
most of history, the Riviera was not chic at all—just quiet fishing
villages and rugged hills. That changed rapidly from the 19ᵗʰ century
onward. In 1887, Stephen Liégeard coined the term “Côte d’Azur,” giving
the region a new identity. Rail links to Nice (from 1864) brought
seasonal visitors and the wealthy elite, triggering a transformation
that replaced modest homes with grand hotels, villas and spas. The
Riviera became a hybrid of nature, luxury, and culture—its image built
as much by artists and writers as by climate.
The coastline didn’t simply become glamorous—it was engineered into a global symbol of wealth and beauty.
Monte Carlo: A Legend Built on Gambling, Spectacle, and Strategy
Monte
Carlo is the Riviera’s boldest experiment in place-making. When Monaco
legalized gambling in 1855, it was a desperate attempt to survive
economically. Entrepreneur François Blanc secured the concession in 1858
and created the casino-resort model that turned a tiny, poor
principality into a luxury destination. Marketing, rail access,
“aristocratic tourism,” and spectacle transformed Monte Carlo into a
playground for royalty, financiers, adventurers and social climbers.
Its history—ambition, profit, scandal and risk—is not accidental. It was constructed.
Why “History + Scandal” Books Reveal the Riviera’s Real Story
The
Riviera is often sold as leisure and beauty. The best history-driven
books tear that image open—showing the deeper dynamics of power,
culture, travel, art, inequality and reinvention.
Here are standout titles:
Recommended Reads
• Making Monte Carlo: A History of Speculation and Spectacle
The
definitive history of Monaco’s transformation—from gambling
legalization to casino culture, wealth creation, publicity and the
darker side of glamour and corruption.
• The French Riviera: A Cultural History
A
sweeping overview of how the region evolved from villages to
aristocratic resort to modern cosmopolitan hub—a study of tourism,
migration and cultural identity.
• The Hidden Riviera: Exploring Southeastern France
A counter-narrative that reveals overlooked histories, social tensions and the realities behind the glamour.
• Secret French Riviera
Investigates hidden stories, inequality and the underbelly behind the postcard.
• The French Riviera and Its Artists
Focuses on the artistic and bohemian side—painters, writers and artistic colonies that helped define the region’s myth.
• Monte Carlo (Assouline)
A lavish visual history of Monte Carlo’s evolving identity and self-presentation.
• The French Riviera in the 1920’s (Assouline)
A photobiography of the Riviera’s most iconic decade—artists, society, and the shadow of approaching war.
What These Books Reveal
Across the Riviera and Monaco, similar themes appear:
The coast wasn’t born glamorous—it was built through speculation, architecture, tourism and branding.
Luxury often masked social inequality, labor struggles and disruption of older ways of life.
Myths mattered. Art, literature and imagery helped sell a dream of escape and wealth.
Monte Carlo and the Riviera became icons because people engineered them to be legends.
Why This Matters—Especially If You Live Here
Living
or traveling here means walking among that history. The Riviera is
beautiful—but it’s also layered with ambition, creativity, risk, social
change and reinvention. These books deepen your view of the region:
villas, boulevards, festivals and casinos become not just scenery, but
cultural artifacts.
In the End: A Coast Built on Stories
The
Riviera and Monte Carlo may look like eternal postcards, but their
history is far more complex: a living blend of glamour and strategy,
culture and commerce, art and illusion. These books go beyond
tourism—they explain how myths are constructed, sold and sustained.
If
you want to understand the Riviera not just as a landscape but as a
legend in motion, these titles are the perfect place to start.
Every winter, Monaco
becomes one of the most enchanting holiday destinations on the Riviera,
and Christmas 2025 promises to be no exception. The festive season
officially begins on 29 November 2025, when the Christmas lights
illuminate Monte-Carlo and the surrounding streets.
The
centrepiece of the celebrations is Place du Casino. A magnificent
Christmas tree—soaring more than 20 metres high—rises before the iconic
Casino de Monte-Carlo, surrounded by themed decorations and festive
displays. At night, the Casino’s façade becomes the stage for
spectacular sound-and-light shows, adding a magical glow to the heart of
the Principality.
The Christmas Village at Port Hercule
One of Monaco’s most popular traditions returns in 2025: the Christmas Village at Port Hercule. Running from 5 December 2025 to 4 January 2026, it stretches along the waterfront at Quai Albert I.
Visitors
will find wooden chalets selling festive treats, local products and
gifts, along with a charming winter fair atmosphere. Attractions include
a Ferris wheel, merry-go-rounds and other seasonal rides. The Sports
Village adds even more excitement with zip lines, obstacle courses and
climbing activities.
Entertainment is central to the village, with
live performances, musicians, festive characters and children’s
workshops scheduled throughout the season.
Festive Dining and Seasonal Indulgence
Christmas in Monaco is also a culinary celebration. Major hotels and
restaurants across the Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer
properties—such as the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo, Hôtel Hermitage
Monte-Carlo and Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort—celebrate with lavish
Christmas decorations and festive dining experiences.
Seasonal
menus, gourmet pastries, Christmas teas and special holiday meals enrich
the festive atmosphere and offer visitors the chance to enjoy the
Principality’s renowned gastronomy. Throughout December, pop-ups and
seasonal chalets serve sweets and hot drinks, making the portside
strolls warm, cozy and indulgent.
The Monte-Carlo Christmas Ball
Christmas in Monaco also brings with it one of the most glamorous
social events of the season: the Monte-Carlo Christmas Ball. In 2025,
the Ball celebrates its 20th anniversary and is held on 12 December at
the historic Salle Empire of the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo. The evening
combines high society glamour with charity fundraising, making it a
signature Monaco tradition.
A Monaco Christmas Like No Other
During Christmas 2025, Monaco offers far more than just stunning
decorations. It creates a complete holiday world: a destination where
gourmet dining meets seaside charm, where children and adults alike
enjoy festive entertainment, and where every corner of the city
participates in the celebration.
Whether wandering through the
dazzling lights of Place du Casino, exploring the Christmas Village, or
enjoying a festive meal in one of Monaco’s iconic hotels, the
Principality brings its signature elegance and creativity to the holiday
season—making it one of the most magical places to experience
Christmas.
As the holiday season approaches, the French Riviera (Côte d’Azur)
lights up in a warm and festive glow. Charming Christmas markets,
illuminated streets, and plenty of seasonal events make this a magical
place to celebrate. Here’s a guide to the top Christmas villages on the
Riviera — including Nice, Antibes, Menton, Cannes, Grasse,
Saint-Laurent-du-Var, and Saint-Tropez.
Where & When to Celebrate Christmas on the Riviera
Menton
Dates: December 5, 2025 – January 4, 2026.
Where: Mail du Bastion & Esplanade Francis-Palmero.
What to See:
About 35 wooden chalets filled with artisan gifts and gourmet delights.
A patinoire (ice rink), merry-go-rounds, and a festive “forest” of Christmas trees to choose for your home.
Daily family entertainment: shows, parades, and Santa’s mailbox from December 5 to 19.
Illuminations and a “Way of the Nativity Scenes” running all season.
Opening Hours:
From Sunday to Thursday: 10:00 to 19:00
On Fridays and Saturdays: 10:00 to 22:00
Extra Magic: On December 5, the Christmas celebrations kick off with an inauguration at the Mail du Bastion starting around 18:00.
Cannes
Dates: November 28, 2025 – January 4, 2026 for the main Christmas Village.
Location: The village is set up on the Allées de la Liberté and Cours Félix Faure.
What’s Happening:
About 60 chalets of artisans and creators, beautifully lit for the season.
A 350 m² ice rink, with sessions for all ages.
Children’s workshops on Wednesdays (3, 10, 17 December), and on weekends + daily from December 20 to January 4.
Storytelling & Christmas Tales: daily at 15:30 & 17:30.
Santa’s Chalet:
Inauguration: 28 November, 17:30–20:30.
Weekends of December 6–7 and 13–14: 14:30–18:30.
Every day from December 20 to 24: 14:30–18:30.
Musical Evenings (“Jeudis Musicaux”): Thursdays 4, 11, 18 December, 18:30–19:30, with gospel, fanfares, and concert-style performances.
Light Parade: On December 23, a magical illuminated parade starts around 17:30, traveling through several central streets.
New Year’s Fireworks: There will be a fireworks show on 31 December at midnight over the bay of Cannes.
Opening Hours for Christmas Village:
Sunday–Thursday: 11:00–21:00
Friday & Saturday: 11:00–22:00
Other Activities:
In
Cannes La Bocca (Avenue Pierre Sémard), from December 20 to 24: a
“Gourmet Workshop” where kids can make sweet Christmas treats, enjoy
stories, and meet Santa & Mrs. Claus.
At the Carlton
Hotel in Cannes, there’s a “Jardin Enchanté” (Enchanted Garden) from 21
November 2025 to 11 January 2026, featuring a skating rink and gospel
concerts.
A Broader Riviera Christmas Tour
Here’s how these new additions (Menton, Cannes) fit in the larger Riviera holiday picture:
Nice:
The traditional Christmas Village in Jardin Albert 1er / Place Masséna
remains a centerpiece for festive crafts, food, and entertainment.
Antibes & Juan-les-Pins: With wooden chalets, a Ferris wheel, a small train, an ice rink, and more — ideal for family outings.
Menton: Provides a more intimate, charming feel with its own forest of Christmas trees, skating, and local artisans.
Cannes:
Offers a sophisticated and varied Christmas experience — artisan
chalets, a large ice rink, musical performances, a parade, and even a
hotel garden spectacle.
Grasse / Pays de Grasse: Light festivals, Christmas markets in smaller villages, and artistic workshops.
Saint-Laurent-du-Var: A cozy park transformed into a winter wonderland — rides, chalet, ice rink.
Saint-Tropez: Idyllic harbor illuminations, a “Christmas farm,” sea-arriving Santa, and a festive gondola-like ride.
Why These Christmas Villages Are Special
Mediterranean Flair: Unlike alpine
Christmas markets, the Riviera combines traditional wooden chalets with
palm-tree-lined streets and a mild winter climate.
Family Delight: Whether it’s skating, meeting Santa, horse-drawn carriages, or creative workshops, these markets are very kid-friendly.
Craftsmanship Meets Local Flavor: Many chalets showcase Provençal artisans, gourmet food, and regional specialties.
Photogenic Charm:
From the harbor in Cannes to the bastion in Menton, the Riviera’s
Christmas décor is sublime for evening strolls and holiday photos.
Practical Tips for Visitors
Check Local Schedules: Times and events vary a lot — particularly for parades, workshops, and ice rink sessions.
Use Public Transit: Parking can be difficult in town centers, especially on weekends in December.
Dress in Layers: Even though it’s warmer than in mountain regions, nights can be chilly by the coast.
Plan Around Weekends: The biggest shows, parades, and fireworks often happen on weekends — book ahead if you’re staying locally.
Final Thoughts
Christmas
2025 on the French Riviera is shaping up to be an enchanting mix of
tradition and elegance. Whether you stroll through Menton’s charming
chalets, skate on Cannes’s ice rink, or enjoy a parade under the Riviera
sky, this holiday season promises something magical for everyone.
In a city known for its lively café culture and relaxed Mediterranean atmosphere, Le Croque Bedaine
has carved out a special place for itself. Located just steps from the
buzz of central Nice, this popular beer-and-croque bar has become a
favorite among locals, visitors, and anyone looking for a casual,
friendly place to unwind.
A Cozy Concept With a Gourmet Twist
Le Croque Bedaine’s charm lies in its simple yet irresistible
concept: generous, gourmet croques paired with a curated selection of
beers. Comforting, unfussy, and delicious, their signature
croque-monsieur–style creations come in inventive varieties—from
truffle-infused recipes to cheese-rich specialties—making it a go-to
stop for food lovers who want quality without the formality.
Guests
consistently praise the warm ambiance, attentive staff, and relaxed
atmosphere. It’s the kind of place where you immediately feel at ease,
whether you’re dropping in for a casual lunch, meeting friends after
work, or settling in for a full evening.
A Welcoming, Inclusive Environment
One of Le Croque Bedaine’s defining strengths is its genuinely welcoming
spirit. Visitors highlight the friendly service, positive energy, and
comfortable setting—an approach that makes the bar feel open and
accessible to everyone.
While the establishment does not market itself as a gay bar, it has
organically become known as LGBT-friendly, appealing to many within
Nice’s diverse LGBTQ community who value laid-back, inclusive spaces.
The emphasis on conviviality, kindness, and making guests feel “at home”
creates an atmosphere where people of all backgrounds can enjoy
themselves freely.
Accessible facilities also enhance its
inclusive reputation, making the venue accommodating not only socially
but physically as well.
A Neighborhood Favorite With Community Vibes
Le Croque Bedaine
is loved not only for its food but also for its community-minded
spirit. The venue is equipped for private events, casual gatherings, and
group celebrations, adding versatility to its charm. Whether you’re a
local looking for a reliable, friendly hangout or a visitor eager to
sample Nice’s easygoing food scene, the bar offers an experience that is
both satisfying and authentically warm.
A Place Where Everyone Feels at Home
Nice has no shortage of good restaurants, but few combine comfort food, great beer, and genuine hospitality quite like Le Croque Bedaine.
Its LGBT-friendly reputation, inclusive vibe, and consistently kind
service make it a standout destination for anyone seeking a relaxed,
enjoyable spot with heart.
In a city built on sunshine and
openness, Le Croque Bedaine fits right in—serving great food, good
energy, and a welcoming atmosphere that keeps people coming back.
Back in February 2011, when blogs were still the platform of choice, I launched the original Gay French Riviera as a small guide for both visitors and locals discovering the region.
A few months later—back when Facebook pages were thriving—I came across some insightful regional articles on the Riviera Buzz Facebook
page. Already deeply interested (some might say obsessed) with the
French Riviera, I reached out to the editor, Iarla Byrne, to ask how I
might contribute. After a quick exchange, he invited me to propose a few
article ideas. Not long after, I attended a writers’ meeting in Vieux
Nice, where I met Iarla and the rest of the contributing team.
Before
I knew it, I was fortunate enough to begin writing regularly, covering a
wide range of topics throughout the region, particularly those
connected to the local LGBTQ community.
Working with Iarla has
always been a pleasure—he’s open-minded, collaborative, and consistently
supportive of fresh ideas and new directions that help showcase the
richness of the region and its communities.
Today, Riviera Buzz
is experiencing a revival not only across the French Riviera but
throughout France. It has increasingly become the “go-to” online media
source for travelers, newcomers, and anyone seeking reliable updates
about the area. This is my perspective on the publication and why it
remains such an important platform for the region.
An English-Language Voice at the Heart of the Côte d’Azur
Riviera
Buzz has become one of the leading English-language online magazines
dedicated to life, culture, and style on the French Riviera. Aimed at
both the region’s large anglophone community and its millions of
international visitors, it delivers daily insights into what’s happening
along the Côte d’Azur and beyond.
A Targeted and Influential Audience
The
magazine reaches a particularly valuable readership: more than 300,000
English-speaking residents in the region, along with the many millions
of tourists who visit the Riviera every year. A significant portion of
this audience owns property locally and has high purchasing power —
making Riviera Buzz especially appealing for luxury brands and local businesses seeking a well-defined demographic.
A Rich and Diverse Editorial Line
Riviera Buzz covers the full spectrum of Riviera life through engaging, well-crafted content:
Arts & Culture: exhibitions, local artists, cultural institutions, and major events.
What’s On: a weekly guide to the most important happenings on the Côte d’Azur — festivals, concerts, theatre, exhibitions, and more.
Lifestyle: fashion, wellness, design, and trends that define the Mediterranean art de vivre.
Food & Drink: restaurant recommendations, culinary trends, and gourmet discoveries.
Property & Real Estate: insights into the region’s unique and highly desirable luxury property market.
Travel & Exploration: guides to iconic Riviera destinations such as Nice, Cannes, Monaco, and the surrounding hilltop villages.
A Powerful Platform for Advertisers
With its
international reach and clearly defined audience, Riviera Buzz offers a
strategic platform for advertising. Brands can position themselves
directly in front of affluent residents and travelers through display
campaigns, sponsored articles, and digital partnerships. The magazine
also leverages its social media presence to expand visibility and
engagement.
A Magazine with Substance
Though
digital, Riviera Buzz provides more than quick lifestyle snippets. Its
articles are often detailed, thoughtfully written, and crafted by
contributors who know the region intimately. Coverage ranges from
high-level cultural events — such as ballet performances in Monaco — to
innovative art installations, community stories, and in-depth looks at
Riviera real estate trends.
A Growing Online Presence
Riviera Buzz continues to expand thanks to:
Strong demand from expats and anglophones seeking reliable local information.
A premium lifestyle focus well aligned with the image of the French Riviera.
A smart advertising strategy that appeals to high-end brands and regional partners.
Conclusion
Riviera
Buzz plays a significant role in the media landscape of the Côte
d’Azur. More than just a news source, it is a lifestyle guide for an
international, discerning audience. With its blend of culture, food,
real estate, and events, the magazine captures the soul of the Riviera
and delivers it to readers around the world.
If
you are based on the French Riviera and have an idea, subject matter, or
story you believe deserves attention, or if you simply have a passion
for writing, you are welcome to reach out at: Info@Riviera-Buzz.com
Long known for its glamour, soft Mediterranean light, and cultural
richness, Nice and the Côte d’Azur are experiencing a new wave of
popularity—this time fueled by young adults seeking a lifestyle that
blends opportunity, inclusivity, and beauty. Today’s Riviera is not just
a playground for the wealthy or a haven for retirees. It has become a
thriving, diverse hub that attracts students, digital nomads, young
professionals, creatives, and a vibrant LGBTQ community that has deep
historical roots in the region.
A Mediterranean Lifestyle Young Adults Love
With around 300 days of sunshine a year, the Côte d’Azur offers
everyday access to the outdoors: morning swims, paddleboarding after
work, scenic hikes through the Esterel, or skiing in the Alps less than
two hours away. Nice balances a laid-back coastal rhythm with the energy
of a major city—an appealing contrast to life in crowded capitals like
Paris or London. For many young adults, this blend of sunshine, culture,
and manageable pace feels like the lifestyle they’ve been searching
for.
A Growing Professional Scene with Real Opportunity
Beyond
its postcard-perfect façade, the region has become an emerging hub for
tech, startups, research, and innovation. Sophia Antipolis—often
referred to as Europe’s “Silicon Valley”—continues to attract companies
specializing in AI, biotech, green mobility, and digital services. The
Eco-Vallée development adds momentum, while nearby Monaco opens doors in
finance, hospitality, luxury sectors, and international organizations.
English
is widely spoken, and the international workforce is steadily growing,
making it easier for young professionals and expats to integrate and
build careers in the region.
A welcoming social atmosphere—and a historic LGBTQ presence
One of the most compelling aspects of Nice is its openness. The city
has long been home to artists, bohemians, expatriates, and queer
communities drawn to its tolerant atmosphere and creative spirit. Nice’s
LGBTQ presence is visible, vibrant, and integrated into the city’s
everyday life.
The annual Pink Parade (Pride) and Queernaval grows bigger each year.
The Vieux Nice, Port, and Place Masséna areas offer LGBTQ-friendly cafés, bars, and nightlife.
Cultural institutions and city initiatives openly support LGBTQ visibility.
This
inclusiveness makes it easy for young LGBTQ adults to feel welcome,
safe, and at home—something not all Mediterranean destinations can
offer.
A Youthful, International Community
Nice’s
population has become increasingly international, with students from
Université Côte d’Azur, foreign workers, and creatives choosing the area
for its climate and quality of life. The mix of languages, cultures,
and backgrounds creates an energetic environment where young adults
quickly build social circles. The nightlife scene reflects this
diversity: beach clubs, wine bars, rooftop lounges, live music venues,
and LGBTQ-friendly spaces blend seamlessly.
Culture, Creativity, and Year-Round Events
Nice
is culturally rich without being overwhelming. Museums, galleries,
historic architecture, and major events—like the Nice Carnival and the
Nice Jazz Festival—give the city constant momentum. Film, art, and music
events fill the calendar, and the region’s historic ties to artists and
writers continue to inspire a new generation of creatives.
For
LGBTQ creatives, Nice offers a sense of continuity with past generations
of queer artists who sought freedom and beauty on the Riviera.
A Surprisingly Good Cost–Quality Ratio
While
the Riviera has a luxury reputation, Nice remains more attainable than
many major European coastal cities. Housing is more accessible than in
Paris, London, or Barcelona, and the cost of food, transportation, and
leisure is reasonable. Outdoors activities—swimming, hiking, running on
the Promenade, are free or inexpensive.
For young adults, this combination of affordability and lifestyle quality is rare.
Easy Travel and Excellent Mobility
Nice
Airport, one of the busiest in Europe, makes weekend travel simple.
Trains to Cannes, Antibes, Menton, and Italy are frequent and
affordable. Many young adults live car-free without sacrificing
convenience—a major advantage in terms of both cost and mobility.
High Quality of Life and a Sense of Safety
Nice
is considered one of the safer major cities in France. Clean public
spaces, pedestrian-friendly neighbourhoods, and ongoing urban
improvements help give the city a relaxed but polished feel. For the
LGBTQ community, safety and social acceptance play a major role in
choosing where to live—and Nice consistently offers both.
The Riviera for a New Generation
Today’s
Côte d’Azur is far more than a glamorous coastal escape. It is a region
where career opportunities intersect with Mediterranean ease, where
diversity is embraced, and where the LGBTQ community is not only
accepted but woven into the city’s cultural identity.
For young
adults—whether French, expat, or queer—the Riviera represents a rare
balance of beauty, freedom, community, and possibility. Nice stands at
the heart of this, offering a lifestyle that is both enriching and
inclusive, and a future shaped by creativity, innovation, and openness.
The Côte d’Azur has always carried an air of intrigue—at times
even scandal—and that mystique remains an essential part of its enduring
allure.
One of the French Riviera’s most coveted estates, La Favorita
in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, has quietly changed hands for an eye-watering
€87 million. In a region where discretion is a currency and silence a
skill, the sale of this sprawling “neo-Florentine” palace has stirred up
questions about luxury real estate, international tax disputes, and the
shadow of geopolitical sanctions.
At the center of the
story is a billionaire who wants out, a billionaire who may have moved
in, and a villa whose history is almost as labyrinthine as the offshore
structure that once owned it.
A Seller Seeking an Exit
The
seller, Italian industrialist Francesco Gaetano Caltagirone, acquired
La Favorita in the early 1990s. For 35 years, it served as his Riviera
refuge—until it didn’t. When recently reached by phone, the 82-year-old
tycoon offered a curt dismissal: “I have nothing to do with this property.”
That
brief statement confirmed what many in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat’s
tight-knit circle already knew: the villa had been sold. But behind the
sale lies a tangled financial backdrop.
Caltagirone’s ownership
was routed through a Delaware company, controlled by a Maltese entity,
itself held by a Jersey-based trust—a common structure in high-end
European real estate. Yet one thing was not common: a €14.5-million tax
dispute with France. In November 2024, the Court of Cassation upheld a
two-decades-old judgment in favor of the French tax authorities. The
claim centered on unpaid annual taxes owed on properties held through
offshore structures.
For years, Caltagirone had also been
embroiled in legal trouble over illegal expansions to the villa—more
than 1,000 square meters added without proper authorization.
By
the time the recent judgment fell, selling La Favorita became more than a
business decision. It became a financial necessity. Sources in the
local real estate world say the billionaire was firm: he would sell only
if he walked away with at least €20 million net after taxes, disputes,
and fees. To guarantee serious inquiries, he barred real estate agents
from organizing visits unless the buyer could prove credibility at the
highest level.
He found one.
The Shadow Buyer: A Russian Billionaire in Monaco?
Whispers quickly filled the peninsula: the new owner was not
French, nor Italian, nor discreetly European. All fingers pointed to one
name: Leonid Fedun.
A former Red Army
officer turned billionaire businessman, Fedun made his fortune as a
major shareholder of Lukoil, Russia’s largest private oil company. He
previously purchased Villa Joya on the same peninsula in 2011 for €72.6
million, demonstrating a taste for Riviera grandeur.
Fedun, who
now lives primarily in Monaco, has not confirmed the acquisition.
Caltagirone denies knowing the buyer. But agents insist that Fedun’s
profile, wealth, and personal preferences fit perfectly.
One detail stands out: Fedun is passionate about tennis. La Favorita
includes its own private tennis court, a rarity even in
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
Locals whisper that the billionaire intends
to settle his new, younger family—his wife, a former model thirty years
his junior, and their five children—in the villa after extensive
renovations. And renovations will be extensive: agents who have seen the
property say at least €25 million is needed to restore the interior,
plus several million more for the grounds.
A Palace in Need of Resurrection
Designed by architect Luc Svetchine, La Favorita was once a statement
property: towering, ornate, and echoing the grandeur of Florentine
villas. But decades of use, legal battles, and delayed work have dulled
its splendor.
What still sets it apart is the land—21,000 square
meters of manicured paradise stretching to the foot of Cap Ferrat’s
semaphore. In a peninsula where many villas sit on tight parcels perched
over the sea, La Favorita’s park-like estate is extraordinarily rare
and contributes significantly to its €87-million valuation.
The Sanctions Cloud
The
sale occurs at a delicate geopolitical moment. Last month, both the
U.S. Treasury and the European Union imposed sanctions on Lukoil. While
Fedun is not personally sanctioned, he remains one of the company’s largest private shareholders.
This
raises questions: Could future sanctions affect the villa? Could the
transaction draw scrutiny? Could Moscow itself intervene?
A recent report from Nice-Matin
suggests that Russia is increasingly monitoring—and sometimes
contesting—its elites’ overseas assets, adding another layer of
intrigue.
For now, the transaction appears legal and
unchallenged. But in an era where oligarch-owned villas on the Riviera
have been frozen, seized, or politically targeted, the story of La
Favorita may not be over.
A Riviera Transaction With Global Ripples
Beyond
the tax drama, offshore structures, and political shadows, the sale of
La Favorita highlights a broader truth: Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat remains
one of the most exclusive and opaque real estate markets in Europe.
Ultra-wealthy buyers operate through layers of trusts and shell
companies, while deals worth tens of millions occur almost entirely out
of public view.
This sale, however, pierced the bubble.
A
billionaire trying to escape a decade-long tax battle. A Russian magnate
possibly moving into one of the Riviera’s last great estates. A
transaction happening just as sanctions tighten around the Russian oil
industry.
La Favorita may now have a new owner. But the story surrounding it is far from finished.
For more than a century, the French Riviera has been a landscape not
only of sun-drenched beaches and artistic glamour, but also a haven for
women who defied convention. Among them are some of the most influential
lesbian and bisexual writers, performers, and cultural figures in
French history. Drawn to the Côte d’Azur’s beauty and its spirit of
freedom, they left behind a legacy that still shapes the region’s
artistic soul.
Here are the women whose stories illuminate the queer heritage of the French Riviera.
Colette: A New Life in Saint-Tropez
Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette, known simply as Colette, was one of
France’s most celebrated writers — bold, sensual, and uncompromisingly
herself. Openly bisexual, she lived several influential relationships
with women throughout her life, many of which inspired her novels.
Colette
found a sanctuary in Saint-Tropez, where she owned a house and spent
long periods writing, gardening, and building a life away from the
constraints of Paris. The Riviera offered her what she described as a
rebirth — a place where her creativity flourished and where she could
live with unusual openness for the time. In the sunshine and quiet
rhythms of the Var coastline, Colette embraced both her artistic
independence and her relationships with women, weaving these experiences
into her literary world.
Suzy Solidor: The Riviera’s Bold and Beautiful Icon
A striking cabaret singer, actress, and muse to many of the greatest
artists of the 20th century, Suzy Solidor was one of France’s first
openly lesbian celebrities. Known for her androgynous beauty and
magnetic stage presence, she cultivated an image that challenged gender
norms long before it was socially acceptable.
In her later years, Solidor settled on the French Riviera, spending the remainder of her life in Cagnes-sur-Mer,
where she died in 1983. Her legacy lives on in the Château-Musée
Grimaldi, which houses her extraordinary collection of portraits — more
than 40 works in which some of the century’s greatest painters captured
her enigmatic face. Suzy’s unapologetic queerness, artistic daring, and
larger-than-life personality made her one of the Riviera’s most
unforgettable figures.
Lucie Delarue-Mardrus: Poet of Desire
A prolific poet, novelist, sculptor, and journalist, Lucie
Delarue-Mardrus wrote openly about her love for women at a time when
such admissions were rare. Her passionate relationships — including with
the famous salon hostess Natalie Clifford Barney — fueled much of her
writing.
While not permanently based on the Riviera,
Delarue-Mardrus’s influence on French queer literary culture is deeply
connected to the broader artistic landscape to which the Côte d’Azur
belonged. Her work, filled with emotional honesty and tenderness toward
women, helped shape early 20th-century lesbian literature and earned her
the first Renée Vivien Prize for poetry.
Violette Leduc: A Radical Voice Honored in Nice
Few writers were as daring as Violette Leduc, whose work
explored lesbian desire, sexuality, and the female body with an honesty
that scandalised mid-century France. Her novel Thérèse et Isabelle, which tells the story of two young women in love, is considered a milestone of lesbian literature.
Although
Leduc did not live full-time on the Riviera, her work is recognised by
cultural institutions in Nice, where themes of her writing resonate in
exhibitions and queer cultural programming. Today she stands as a symbol
of literary rebellion — a woman who tore down the walls of censorship
and paved the way for modern queer authors.
Françoise Mallet-Joris: A Literary Trailblazer
Belgian-born but influential throughout French literary life,
Françoise Mallet-Joris wrote novels that explored complex relationships,
including those between women. Her early work Le Rempart des Béguines became famous — and controversial — for its portrayal of lesbian love.
Mallet-Joris
moved within the same intellectual circles that gave the French Riviera
its cultural prestige, and her frankness about her relationships with
women made her a significant figure in the evolving conversation about
sexuality and literature.
Why the Riviera Became a Sanctuary
The Côte d’Azur has long been more than a glamorous destination. Its
light, its landscapes, and its international artistic community nurtured
women who lived outside traditional boundaries. Here, queer women found
freedom from Parisian social constraints. They discovered creative
inspiration in the region’s beauty and cultural energy. They built a
community of fellow artists and writers who shared their experiences and
perspectives. They also found a deep sense of belonging in a region
that has historically welcomed outsiders.
Even today, the Riviera
maintains this spirit of inclusivity. Cities like Nice openly support
LGBTQ+ culture, hosting festivals, exhibitions, and community events
that preserve the memory of these trailblazing women.
A Lasting Heritage
The
stories of Colette, Suzy Solidor, Lucie Delarue-Mardrus, Violette
Leduc, and Françoise Mallet-Joris remind us that queer history is deeply
woven into the identity of the French Riviera. Through their courage,
creativity, and refusal to hide who they were, these women helped shape
the cultural richness that still defines the Côte d’Azur today.
Their legacy is not only written in books and museums — it lives on in the open, sunlit freedom of the Riviera itself.
