There are days when I feel unusually protective of the French Riviera.
After living here for over a decade and being a long time visitor decades before that, this corner of the world has become home. I love seeing visitors discover places like Èze for the first time, but every summer I also find myself quietly worrying as I watch people unknowingly put themselves in situations that could easily become dangerous.
This isn’t meant to discourage anyone from visiting one of the Riviera’s most spectacular villages. Quite the opposite. I simply want people to enjoy it safely.
My regular swimming spot is in Èze Bord de Mer, which means I pass through the train and bus station almost every day. Throughout the summer, thousands of visitors arrive by train before making their way up the mountain to the medieval village of Èze.
If you’ve never been, here’s what to expect.
By 9:00 or 9:30 in the morning, crowds have already begun forming at the bus stop waiting for the No. 83 bus that climbs the winding road to the village. During peak season, those buses are almost always full even in the winter. Some people will board earlier along the route from Nice, but there’s a good chance you’ll be standing shoulder to shoulder with dozens of other travellers.
For many people, there is a much easier solution.
From the train station, an Uber is often surprisingly affordable—typically somewhere between €10 and €25 depending on the season, time of day and demand. It’s usually far cheaper than a taxi and, more importantly, it saves valuable time and energy that you can spend actually enjoying the village instead of waiting in the heat.
If you can, aim to arrive before 10:00 a.m. You don’t have to be there at sunrise, but the difference between arriving at 9:30 and 11:30 during the height of summer can be enormous. The crowds grow quickly and last well into the afternoon, the temperatures climb even faster, and exploring the narrow medieval streets becomes much less comfortable as it has become an extremely popular place to visit.
The Advice Online That Worries Me
Lately I’ve noticed more and more social media posts recommending that visitors skip the bus entirely and simply hike up the famous Nietzsche Trail.
On paper, it sounds like a wonderful idea.
In reality, for many visitors, it can be a very poor decision.
The Nietzsche Trail is beautiful. It is also steep, rocky, exposed to the sun, and considerably more demanding than many people realise from watching a 30-second travel video online.
Almost every day I watch people begin the climb completely unprepared.
No water.
No hat.
No sunscreen.
No snacks.
No hiking shoes.
Sometimes they’re wearing sandals. Occasionally I’ve even seen people attempting the climb in high heels.
I’ve watched parents trying to push strollers uphill.
Fathers carrying infants.
Families encourage exhausted toddlers to climb what is, after all, a mountain trail.
I’ve even seen women in the later stages of pregnancy preparing to tackle the ascent.
At times I’ve even tried to gently intervene to no avail.
Time after time, people underestimate what they’re about to do because they’re on holiday and everything feels exciting. Unfortunately, the Mediterranean climate doesn’t care whether you’re on vacation.
Heat Is Not Something to Underestimate
This summer has brought repeated heatwaves across the French Riviera.
Even by mid-morning, temperatures can already feel oppressive, especially for visitors arriving from cooler climates.
The climb itself can easily take well over an hour on a good day depending on your fitness level, and significantly longer if you stop frequently to rest. There are no cafés, refreshment stands or convenience stores along the trail where you can buy water if you run out.
Every summer, emergency services across the Riviera respond to hikers suffering from heat exhaustion, dehydration, falls, and, in more serious cases, cardiac emergencies. Even experienced hikers can struggle during periods of extreme heat, particularly on exposed trails with little shade.
As locals, we become accustomed to recognising the warning signs. We know when the conditions simply aren’t suitable for a strenuous climb, no matter how fit we may be.
If You Really Want to Experience the Trail...
The Nietzsche Trail absolutely deserves its reputation.
If hiking is something you regularly do and you’ve come properly equipped with plenty of water, appropriate footwear, sun protection and realistic expectations, it can be one of the Riviera’s most rewarding walks.
Personally, however, I would recommend doing it downhill instead.
Descending from Èze Village towards Èze Bord de Mer allows you to enjoy the magnificent panoramic views stretching across the Mediterranean rather than spending most of the climb staring at the rocky path immediately in front of you. It’s still physically demanding and requires caution, but for many people it makes for a far more enjoyable experience.
Sometimes Spending a Little More Is Worth It
