The End of an Era at Paloma Beach — But the Story May Not Be Over

 

The French Riviera has lost one of its most beloved seaside institutions. After decades of sun-soaked lunches, celebrity sightings, and languid afternoons beside turquoise water, the iconic beach club at Paloma Beach will not reopen its doors this season.

For generations of locals, yacht owners, and Riviera regulars, the small but magical cove on the eastern side of Saint‑Jean‑Cap‑Ferrat has been synonymous with the golden age of Mediterranean beach life.

But in 2025 the historic restaurant and beach facilities — which had stood since the late 1940s — were demolished as part of a municipal redevelopment project aimed at bringing the site into compliance with France’s strict coastal protection laws.

The plan includes replacing the aging structure with a removable seasonal building, along with environmental improvements along the nearby Sentier du Littoral (Saint‑Hospice coastal path) and stabilization work on the surrounding cliffs. With construction and administrative processes still underway, the beach club is expected to remain closed until at least 2027.

Yet the spirit of Paloma may not be gone for good.

Owners Baptiste, Agathe, and Jean-Claude recently shared a message hinting that their story with the beach is not over. “The spirit of Paloma will continue to exist and to surprise you,” they wrote — a tantalizing suggestion that the beloved institution could eventually return in some new form.

The affection surrounding Paloma Beach is easy to understand.

Tucked into a sheltered Scaletta cove with sweeping views across the bay toward Beaulieu‑sur‑Mer, the beach club built a reputation for effortless Riviera elegance rather than flashy excess. Its striped umbrellas, clear water and relaxed restaurant terrace made it a favourite for long Mediterranean lunches of grilled fish, rosé, and slow afternoons drifting between table and sea.

Over the decades, the guest list read like a who’s who of Riviera history. Visitors reportedly included figures such as Winston Churchill, Elton John, Tom Cruise and Roger Moore — all drawn by the beach’s unique combination of beauty and low-key charm.

More recently, Paloma found a new global audience when it appeared in the hit Netflix series Emily in Paris. Film fans might also recognize the beach from Fifty Shades Darker, where the character Christian Grey — played by Jamie Dornan — famously emerges from the Mediterranean in one of the movie’s Riviera scenes.

But beyond its film cameos and famous guests, what truly made Paloma special was its atmosphere. In a region increasingly defined by mega-yachts and high-energy beach clubs, Paloma managed to preserve something rare: the feeling of a classic Riviera summer day. Families, artists, locals and travelers mingled beneath the pines, slipping into the sea between leisurely meals and long conversations that stretched late into the afternoon.

For now, the restaurant chairs and striped umbrellas may be gone. Yet the cove itself — one of the most beautiful swimming spots on the Riviera — remains open to the public. Visitors can still descend the path, slip into the same crystalline water, and imagine the decades of Riviera summers that unfolded here.

And if the owners’ message is anything to go by, this may not be the final chapter for Paloma Beach — only an intermission.

Beyond the Blue: The Most Beautiful Countryside Escapes from Nice, Cannes & Monaco

 

The Riviera’s glittering coastline may get all the postcards, but just beyond the sea lies a different world — one of stone villages clinging to cliffs, lavender-scented hills, forested plateaus and winding mountain roads that feel a million miles from beach clubs. Whether you live here year-round or you’re visiting and craving a change of scenery, these inland day trips deliver fresh air, culture, and serious Provençal charm.

Here’s where to go when you want to trade the Mediterranean for mountains and medieval lanes.

Hilltop Villages That Feel Like Time Travel

If you’ve ever glanced up from the coast and noticed villages impossibly perched on rocky ridges — this is your sign to go.

Gourdon: Dramatically suspended above the Loup Valley, Gourdon is pure cinematic Provence. Expect panoramic views stretching to the sea, winding medieval streets, and terraced gardens surrounding its château. It’s ideal for a slow wander followed by lunch with a view that makes you forget the Côte d’Azur traffic ever existed.

Tourrettes-sur-Loup: Known as the “Village of Violets,” this pastel-toned beauty is full of artisan workshops, flower-filled balconies, and quiet stone passageways. In spring, the scent of violets drifts through the air — and yes, you can taste them in local sweets and syrups.

Saint-Paul-de-Vence: A classic for good reason. Art galleries line the centuries-old streets, and the village has long attracted creatives and collectors. Come early or late to avoid peak crowds and linger over a café in one of the most atmospheric settings in southern France.

Vence: Often overlooked in favour of its famous neighbour, Vence feels more lived-in and authentic. Its old town is a joy to wander, and art lovers shouldn’t miss the Chapelle du Rosaire designed by Matisse. It’s the kind of place where a “quick stop” turns into an afternoon.

Biot: Between Nice and Cannes, Biot offers cobbled lanes, artisan glassblowing studios and a relaxed village feel without the heavy foot traffic. It’s a perfect half-day escape if you don’t want to venture too far inland.

Wild Nature & Fresh Mountain Air

When you’re craving space, silence and scenery — head higher.

Parc naturel régional des Préalpes d’Azur: This vast protected park stretches between the Mediterranean and the southern Alps, offering limestone plateaus, deep gorges and panoramic hiking trails. It’s a dream for walkers, cyclists and anyone who wants to swap sea salt for pine and wild thyme.

Saint-Jeannet: Set beneath the dramatic Baou rock formation, Saint-Jeannet is ideal for scenic hikes and sweeping views back toward the coast. It’s peaceful, unpolished, and perfect for a countryside lunch after a morning climb.

Bouyon: Further inland, Bouyon feels distinctly Alpine. Wide open vistas, quiet roads and authentic village life make it a refreshing contrast to Riviera glamour.

Inland Towns with Culture & Character

Grasse: The world’s perfume capital sits among rolling hills scented with jasmine and roses. Visit historic fragrance houses, wander its steep old town, and soak in a more traditional Provençal rhythm of life.

Mougins: Just above Cannes, Mougins pairs art galleries with excellent gastronomy. Its circular hilltop layout offers beautiful countryside views — and more than a few Michelin-starred temptations.

Easy Pairings for a Perfect Day

From Nice: Combine Vence with Tourrettes-sur-Loup, or head toward Gourdon for big valley views.
From Cannes: Start in Mougins or Biot, then push further inland into the Préalpes. From Monaco: Wind up into the hills toward Saint-Jeannet or beyond for a dramatic shift in landscape.

Why Go Inland?

Because the Riviera isn’t just about the sea.

Up here, you’ll find:

• Cooler summer temperatures

• Fewer crowds (especially midweek)

• Authentic village life

• Hiking trails and panoramic lookouts

• Long, unhurried lunches under plane trees

It’s a reminder that behind the yachts and beach clubs lies a region rich in history, craftsmanship, and raw natural beauty.

So next time the coastline feels a little too familiar — turn your back on the water and follow the mountain roads. The real magic of the Côte d’Azur might just be waiting above it.

Discovering the Soul of Nice at Librairie Vigna

 

Last week, I had the pleasure of rediscovering Librairie Vigna in Nice during a visit arranged with the Press Relations Development Manager from Explore Nice Cote d’Azur.

I’d first written about the shop more than a decade ago, simply as a curious customer passing through. But this return visit? It was something else entirely — deeper, warmer, and far more illuminating.

Situated in the heart of Nice, Librairie Vigna is much more than a charming new-and-used bookshop. It is a cultural anchor for the LGBTQ+ community on the French Riviera and one of the few long-standing queer bookstores in the region.

Independently owned and operated by a welcoming lesbian couple, the shop has built a reputation not just for its carefully curated selection of literature, but for its role as a safe, intellectual, and social space.

The shelves span LGBTQ+ fiction and non-fiction, queer theory, poetry, history, philosophy, art, and rare or hard-to-find titles — in both French and English. Whether you’re searching for contemporary voices or foundational LGBTQ+ texts, chances are they’ll either have it or know exactly how to source it.

Their knowledge isn’t performative; it’s lived. They speak fluently about the evolution of LGBTQ+ rights in France, the cultural movements that shaped the Riviera, and the artists and writers — both local and international — who have left their mark here.

And yes, Librairie Vigna is also a gathering place. The shop regularly hosts author signings, book launches, group readings, and community discussions, particularly around LGBTQ+ literature and social issues. 

These events often bring together locals and visitors alike, creating a lively exchange of ideas in an intimate setting. During Pride season and key cultural moments in Nice, the bookstore becomes an even more vibrant hub of conversation and celebration.

What makes it special isn’t just the inventory — it’s the atmosphere. It’s one of those wonderfully tucked-away gems you read about online and promise yourself you’ll visit “next time” you’re in France. And when you finally step inside, you realize it was worth the wait.

For anyone interested in the layered artistic history of the French Riviera — from writers who found refuge along the coast to the creatives who shaped the region’s mystique — the owners have story after story to share. 

They understand how Nice fits into the broader cultural narrative of France and how the LGBTQ+ community has quietly, persistently shaped that story.

In a city celebrated for its sun-drenched promenades and Belle Époque facades, Librairie Vigna offers something different: depth, memory, conversation, and connection.

If you’re planning a visit to Nice, don’t just walk the Promenade des Anglais. 
Step inside Librairie Vigna. Stay awhile. Browse. Ask questions. Listen.

It’s not just a bookstore — it’s a living archive. 

Escape, Indulge, Repeat: Why La Connexion Is the French Riviera’s Best-Kept Gay Secret

 

Discreetly situated in the sun-drenched hills near Grasse, just 40 km from Nice Airport and 25 km from Cannes, La Connexion is about to launch its fifth season on the Côte d’Azur — and if you haven’t experienced it yet, consider this your sign.

This isn’t just a place to stay. It’s a vibe. A reset. A playground. A retreat. And somehow, it balances all of that effortlessly.

The Retreat You Didn’t Know You Needed

Set in Peymeinade, near the perfume capital of Grasse, La Connexion offers the kind of calm that feels almost decadent. Think Provençal sunshine, relaxed mornings by the pool, warm evenings under the stars, and that soft Riviera breeze that makes you forget what stress even is.

It’s intimate without being isolating. Social without being overwhelming. Whether you’re traveling solo and craving connection, or escaping with friends (or more than friends), the atmosphere naturally brings people together.

You can wake up slowly. Take your coffee in the garden. Lounge. Swim. Flirt. Repeat.

And Yes… There’s Fun

Let’s be honest — you don’t fly to the French Riviera just to meditate (though you absolutely could).

La Connexion has built its reputation as a space where gay men can feel free, respected, and fully themselves. The energy shifts as the sun sets. Conversations get closer. Music drifts through the warm night air. The resort knows how to create that perfect tension between relaxed luxury and playful possibility.

It’s that rare balance: a sanctuary by day, a spark of mischief by night.

Take It Further: GaySail Adventures

And if lounging by the pool isn’t enough adventure for you, the owners also invite guests to discover GaySail — offering unforgettable gay sailing cruises around the world.

Imagine this: bronzed men, turquoise waters, champagne sunsets, and the freedom of the open sea. From international destinations to exclusive cruises along the Côte d’Azur itself, GaySail transforms a holiday into a full-blown experience.

La Connexion isn’t just a resort. It’s a gateway — to connection, to exploration, to stories you’ll definitely tell (and maybe a few you won’t).

The Riviera Is Calling

The Côte d’Azur has always symbolized glamour and freedom. But while the beach clubs of Cannes and the promenades of Nice get the headlines, La Connexion offers something more personal. 

More intimate. More… connected.

So whether you’re craving a restorative escape, a flirtatious getaway, or a sailing adventure that makes your Instagram followers wildly jealous — this is your moment.

Sun. Skin. Sea. Connection.

See you in Peymeinade.