Before You Hike Èze's Famous Nietzsche Trail This Summer, Please Read This

 

There are days when I feel unusually protective of the French Riviera.

After living here for over a decade and being a long time visitor decades before that, this corner of the world has become home. I love seeing visitors discover places like Èze for the first time, but every summer I also find myself quietly worrying as I watch people unknowingly put themselves in situations that could easily become dangerous.

This isn’t meant to discourage anyone from visiting one of the Riviera’s most spectacular villages. Quite the opposite. I simply want people to enjoy it safely.

My regular swimming spot is in Èze Bord de Mer, which means I pass through the train and bus station almost every day. Throughout the summer, thousands of visitors arrive by train before making their way up the mountain to the medieval village of Èze.

If you’ve never been, here’s what to expect.

By 9:00 or 9:30 in the morning, crowds have already begun forming at the bus stop waiting for the No. 83 bus that climbs the winding road to the village. During peak season, those buses are almost always full even in the winter. Some people will board earlier along the route from Nice, but there’s a good chance you’ll be standing shoulder to shoulder with dozens of other travellers.

For many people, there is a much easier solution.

From the train station, an Uber is often surprisingly affordable—typically somewhere between €10 and €25 depending on the season, time of day and demand. It’s usually far cheaper than a taxi and, more importantly, it saves valuable time and energy that you can spend actually enjoying the village instead of waiting in the heat.

If you can, aim to arrive before 10:00 a.m. You don’t have to be there at sunrise, but the difference between arriving at 9:30 and 11:30 during the height of summer can be enormous. The crowds grow quickly and last well into the afternoon, the temperatures climb even faster, and exploring the narrow medieval streets becomes much less comfortable as it has become an extremely popular place to visit.

The Advice Online That Worries Me

Lately I’ve noticed more and more social media posts recommending that visitors skip the bus entirely and simply hike up the famous Nietzsche Trail.

On paper, it sounds like a wonderful idea.

In reality, for many visitors, it can be a very poor decision.

The Nietzsche Trail is beautiful. It is also steep, rocky, exposed to the sun, and considerably more demanding than many people realise from watching a 30-second travel video online.

Almost every day I watch people begin the climb completely unprepared.

No water.

No hat.

No sunscreen.

No snacks.

No hiking shoes.

Sometimes they’re wearing sandals. Occasionally I’ve even seen people attempting the climb in high heels.

I’ve watched parents trying to push strollers uphill.

Fathers carrying infants.

Families encourage exhausted toddlers to climb what is, after all, a mountain trail.

I’ve even seen women in the later stages of pregnancy preparing to tackle the ascent.

At times I’ve even tried to gently intervene to no avail.

Time after time, people underestimate what they’re about to do because they’re on holiday and everything feels exciting. Unfortunately, the Mediterranean climate doesn’t care whether you’re on vacation.

Heat Is Not Something to Underestimate

This summer has brought repeated heatwaves across the French Riviera.

Even by mid-morning, temperatures can already feel oppressive, especially for visitors arriving from cooler climates.

The climb itself can easily take well over an hour on a good day depending on your fitness level, and significantly longer if you stop frequently to rest. There are no cafés, refreshment stands or convenience stores along the trail where you can buy water if you run out.

Every summer, emergency services across the Riviera respond to hikers suffering from heat exhaustion, dehydration, falls, and, in more serious cases, cardiac emergencies. Even experienced hikers can struggle during periods of extreme heat, particularly on exposed trails with little shade.

As locals, we become accustomed to recognising the warning signs. We know when the conditions simply aren’t suitable for a strenuous climb, no matter how fit we may be.

If You Really Want to Experience the Trail...

The Nietzsche Trail absolutely deserves its reputation.

If hiking is something you regularly do and you’ve come properly equipped with plenty of water, appropriate footwear, sun protection and realistic expectations, it can be one of the Riviera’s most rewarding walks.

Personally, however, I would recommend doing it downhill instead.

Descending from Èze Village towards Èze Bord de Mer allows you to enjoy the magnificent panoramic views stretching across the Mediterranean rather than spending most of the climb staring at the rocky path immediately in front of you. It’s still physically demanding and requires caution, but for many people it makes for a far more enjoyable experience.

Sometimes Spending a Little More Is Worth It

Not every holiday memory needs to begin with “We tried to save a few euros.”

Sometimes the smartest travel decision is also the safest one.

Take the bus if you’re happy to wait.

Book an Uber if you’d prefer comfort and convenience.

Save your energy for wandering the enchanting streets of Èze Village, exploring its gardens, enjoying lunch with a view over the Mediterranean, and discovering everything else this remarkable place has to offer.

The French Riviera rewards those who slow down.

As someone fortunate enough to call this region home, my only hope is that every visitor leaves with wonderful memories—not an unnecessary trip to the emergency room.

If you’re not accustomed to mountain hiking, don’t make the Nietzsche Trail your very first attempt simply because someone on social media said it was “easy.”

The mountain will still be there tomorrow. Your holiday will be far more enjoyable if you arrive at the top safely.

A Once-in-a-Generation Solar Eclipse Will Transform the Skies Over Monaco and the French Riviera

 

On the evening of Wednesday, August 12, 2026, the French Riviera and Monaco will turn toward the western horizon as one of the most extraordinary astronomical events visible from the region in decades unfolds above the Mediterranean.

While millions of eclipse enthusiasts will travel to northern Spain in pursuit of the path of totality, those fortunate enough to be in Monaco, Nice, Beaulieu-sur-Mer, Villefranche-sur-Mer, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Èze, Cap d’Ail, Antibes, Cannes, and surrounding communities will still experience something truly remarkable.

At its peak, approximately 95 percent of the Sun will be obscured by the Moon, creating a dramatic late-evening partial solar eclipse unlike anything many residents and visitors have ever witnessed.

Although Monaco lies just outside the narrow corridor where the eclipse will become total, a 95 percent eclipse is exceptionally rare. For most people, it is the kind of celestial event that may only be experienced once or twice in a lifetime. As daylight begins to fade naturally, the Moon will slowly cover the Sun, transforming an ordinary August evening into a breathtaking display of nature’s precision and beauty.

What makes this eclipse particularly special is its timing. Rather than occurring high overhead during the middle of the day, the eclipse will take place as the Sun descends toward the western horizon over the Mediterranean Sea. This rare combination of a deep eclipse and a sunset creates the potential for stunning colours, with shades of gold, orange, crimson, and violet painting the Riviera sky while the Sun appears as nothing more than a slender crescent.

As the Moon reaches its maximum coverage at approximately 8:24 p.m., daylight across the Riviera will noticeably dim. Shadows will become unusually crisp and distorted, temperatures may briefly cool, and birds and other wildlife may begin behaving as though dusk has arrived earlier than expected. The atmosphere often takes on an almost surreal quality during a deep partial eclipse, leaving many first-time observers amazed by how dramatically the world around them changes.

For photographers, August 12 promises to be one of the most anticipated evenings of the year. The Riviera already offers some of Europe’s most picturesque coastlines, and the addition of a partially eclipsed Sun setting over the Mediterranean presents a once-in-a-generation opportunity. Images of yachts silhouetted against the darkened sky, Monaco’s skyline beneath the eclipsed Sun, or the rugged cliffs of Beaulieu-sur-Mer glowing beneath the fading light could become some of the defining photographs of the summer.

There will be no shortage of spectacular viewing locations. The waterfronts of Monaco, Cap d’Ail, Beaulieu-sur-Mer, Villefranche-sur-Mer, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Nice’s Colline du Château, Cap d’Antibes, and the beaches of Cannes all offer unobstructed views toward the west. Finding a location with a clear horizon will be important, as the Sun will be sitting low above the Mediterranean during the eclipse’s most dramatic moments.

Where and When to Watch

Whether you are a resident or visiting the Côte d’Azur for the summer, planning ahead will ensure you have the best possible view of this extraordinary event. Arriving early is recommended, as many of the Riviera’s best waterfront locations are expected to attract large crowds.

Below are the peak times but the eclipse starts at 7:30 pm.

Monaco

8:24 p.m. (≈95%)

Nice

8:23 p.m. (≈95%)

Cannes

8:22 p.m. (≈94%)

Antibes

8:22 p.m. (≈94%)

Menton

8:24 p.m. (≈95%)

Because the Sun will be very low over the Mediterranean during the eclipse, choosing a location with a completely unobstructed western horizon will make all the difference. Even buildings, hills, or trees could block the view during the eclipse’s most dramatic moments. Visitors are encouraged to arrive at least an hour before the eclipse begins, bring certified ISO 12312-2 eclipse glasses, and remember that cameras, telescopes, and binoculars require approved solar filters to safely capture the event.

Although northern Spain will experience complete darkness for a few unforgettable minutes as the eclipse reaches totality, the French Riviera’s view will still rank among the finest anywhere outside the path of totality. Combined with the region’s world-famous scenery, warm August weather, and stunning coastal landscapes, the event is expected to attract astronomy enthusiasts, photographers, and curious visitors from around the globe.

Anyone planning to watch should remember one important rule: never look directly at the Sun without proper eye protection. Even with 95 percent of the Sun covered, the remaining sunlight is still powerful enough to cause permanent eye damage. Certified solar eclipse glasses meeting the ISO 12312-2 international safety standard should be worn throughout the entire event, and cameras, telescopes, and binoculars should only be used with approved solar filters.

The eclipse is also a reminder of humanity’s enduring fascination with the night sky. Long before satellites, smartphones, and modern astronomy, eclipses inspired wonder, curiosity, and countless legends across civilizations. Today, while science allows us to predict these events with remarkable precision, the emotional impact remains unchanged. Standing beneath a darkening sky as the Moon slowly glides across the face of the Sun is an experience that leaves even seasoned astronomers humbled.

For residents who call the French Riviera home and for visitors spending their summer holidays along the Côte d’Azur, August 12 offers more than just another beautiful sunset. It offers the chance to witness one of nature’s greatest spectacles from one of the world’s most beautiful coastlines.

As the Mediterranean reflects the fading light and the Moon takes its place before the Sun, the French Riviera and Monaco will once again prove that some of life’s most unforgettable moments are not created by people, but by the universe itself. This remarkable celestial event is sure to become one of the defining highlights of the Riviera’s summer of 2026—a night that will be remembered long after the Sun has disappeared beyond the horizon.

Monaco Takes Another Major Step Forward for LGBTQ+ Equality

 

For years, Monaco has moved carefully and gradually toward greater recognition of same-sex couples. The introduction of the Contrat de Vie Commune in 2020 marked an important moment for LGBTQ+ people in the Principality, providing same-sex partners with formal legal recognition for the first time.

 

Now, Monaco appears ready to take an even more meaningful step forward.

 

The Monegasque government is working on a broader reform of family law that would introduce a new civil union for same-sex couples. The proposed legislation could be presented to the National Council before the end of 2026, potentially creating stronger legal protections and bringing the rights of same-sex couples much closer to those associated with marriage.

 

If adopted, the reform would represent one of the most significant advances for LGBTQ+ equality in Monaco in decades.

 

The proposed civil union is expected to go considerably further than the existing Contrat de Vie Commune. While the current agreement has provided important recognition, the new legal framework could offer same-sex couples greater security and stronger protections in areas that have a direct impact on their lives and families.

The government is also examining reforms to family and parentage laws that could provide greater legal certainty and protection for children growing up in same-sex families.

 

That wider approach is encouraging.

 

It suggests that Monaco is looking beyond the recognition of couples alone and considering the real-life legal needs of LGBTQ+ families. Stronger protections could help ensure that committed partners and their children receive greater security, recognition and support under Monegasque law.

 

The proposed reforms also respond to concerns that have been raised in recent years regarding differences in social protections available to same-sex couples. 

Monaco’s High Commission for the Protection of Rights, Liberties and Mediation previously called attention to inequalities involving social rights and protections, including issues connected to survivor benefits and pensions.

 

The government’s willingness to address these concerns is a positive sign that the conversation is moving from recognition toward greater legal inclusion.

 

For Monaco—a country known for its traditions, its strong cultural identity and its carefully considered approach to social change—this is an important moment.

 

Progress does not always arrive overnight. Sometimes it comes through steady, thoughtful steps that gradually build a stronger and more inclusive society. Monaco’s journey toward greater LGBTQ+ equality has followed that path, and the proposed civil union could become one of its most important milestones yet.

 

Same-sex marriage is not currently part of the government’s proposed reforms. The new civil union would create a distinct legal framework rather than extending marriage to same-sex couples.

 

However, that does not diminish the significance of what may now be taking shape.

A civil union with stronger legal protections could provide many same-sex couples with greater confidence and security while helping ensure that their relationships receive the dignity and recognition they deserve. It would also send a powerful message that LGBTQ+ people and families are an important and valued part of Monegasque society.

 

The Contrat de Vie Commune opened in 2020.

 

The proposed civil union could now move Monaco much further along the path toward equality.

 

There is still work to be done, and the final details of the legislation will matter enormously. LGBTQ+ organizations, families and supporters will rightly be watching closely to see which protections are included and how closely the new union approaches the rights associated with marriage.

 

But there is genuine reason for optimism.

 

Monaco is demonstrating that progress is possible while remaining true to its own identity and traditions. The Principality is taking meaningful steps to provide greater recognition, stronger protections and a more secure future for same-sex couples and their families.

 

If the proposed legislation moves forward, 2026 could become a landmark year for LGBTQ+ rights in Monaco.

 

The journey toward full equality continues—but Monaco is moving forward, and this time, the next step could be a very significant one.

France Doesn't Really "Shut Down" in August Anymore—But It Does Slow Down

For decades, visitors and expatriates have repeated the same line about France every summer:

 

“Don’t bother trying to get anything done in August. The country shuts down.”

 

Like many stereotypes, there’s a grain of truth behind it—but in 2026, the reality is far more nuanced.

 

France no longer closes its doors for an entire month. Instead, it simply changes pace.

The tradition dates back generations. Following the expansion of paid annual leave after the Second World War, August became the nation’s preferred vacation month. 

 

Entire factories closed, offices emptied, family-run businesses locked their doors, and millions of French families packed their cars for the coast or the countryside. It wasn’t unusual to see signs reading, “Closed for annual holidays until September.”

 

For many years, the image was accurate. Paris became noticeably quieter, government offices operated with skeleton staff, and trying to organize anything involving paperwork or professional services often meant waiting until autumn.

 

Today, however, France has evolved.

 

International business, globalization, tourism, and digital connectivity mean much of the economy continues operating throughout August. Large corporations remain open. Banks continue serving customers. International companies expect business to carry on, even if key employees rotate through their vacations over several weeks rather than disappearing all at once.

 

Yet anyone who has lived in France long enough will tell you that August still feels different.

 

The country doesn’t stop—it slows.

 

If you’re waiting for planning permission, legal documents, banking approvals, construction work, or administrative decisions, chances are your timeline will stretch longer than expected. Many professionals, from architects and lawyers to notaires and contractors, take annual leave during this period, and projects that normally move quickly can find themselves paused until September.

 

Small, family-owned businesses are where the old tradition is still very much alive.

Across towns and villages, independent restaurants, neighborhood cafés, bakeries, boutiques, garages, and artisan workshops still regularly close for two or three weeks. Handwritten notices announcing annual holidays remain a familiar sight in shop windows throughout the country.

 

Then there’s the French Riviera—where the old stereotype couldn’t be further from reality.

 

While much of France eases into holiday mode, the Côte d’Azur enters its busiest period of the entire year.

 

From Nice and Cannes to Antibes, Villefranche-sur-Mer, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Menton, and Monaco, August is peak season. Hotels are operating at or near capacity. 

 

Restaurants are serving multiple dinner sittings each evening. Beach clubs are fully booked. Luxury villas welcome guests from around the world, yachts fill the marinas, and retailers extend their opening hours to accommodate the surge in visitors.

 

For businesses that depend on tourism, August isn’t the time to close—it’s the time that often determines the success of the entire year.

 

Ironically, many Riviera locals don’t take their vacations in August at all. Those working in hospitality, real estate, luxury services, restaurants, and tourism typically work through the busiest weeks before taking their own holidays later in September, October, or even November, once the crowds have gone home and life returns to a gentler rhythm.

For me, I think I’m still a little too ambitious and always seem to be busy with clients. Yet I love knowing I can slow down for the odd afternoon, enjoy a long hike or go for a swim, or just spend a couple of hours soaking up life on the French Riviera with a friend. But if I’m honest, I don’t think I’d know what to do with myself if I had too much free time. I enjoy being busy, I love what I do and seeing projects to completion, and after all these years, I wouldn’t have it any other way. It’s fulfilling living in the place you love.

 

This doesn’t mean every business remains fully operational. Some medical specialists, accountants, architects, lawyers, and smaller service providers still close for part of the month, while certain local restaurants away from tourist areas may take their annual break. Visitors are sometimes surprised to discover a favorite neighborhood café closed while every waterfront restaurant is overflowing with customers.

 

The real estate market also reflects this seasonal balancing act. International buyers continue arriving throughout August to view luxury homes and villas, but transactions can progress more slowly if banks, notaires, surveyors, or administrative offices are operating with reduced staffing. Deals still happen, but patience is often required.

Perhaps that’s the biggest misconception of all.

 

France hasn’t stopped working in August—it has simply refused to abandon its belief that life should include time to rest.

 

In a world where many countries celebrate being available 24 hours a day, seven days a week, France still values the idea that vacations are an essential part of life rather than a luxury. Businesses continue operating, tourists continue arriving, and cities continue functioning, but the pace becomes unmistakably more relaxed.

 

So, is it an urban myth that France closes for the entire month of August?

Not anymore.

 

Modern reality is far more interesting. Tourist destinations like the French Riviera are busier than ever, corporate France largely keeps moving, and only some sectors continue the long-standing tradition of extended summer holidays.

 

If you’re coming to the Riviera, expect busy beaches, lively restaurants, bustling marinas, and one of the most vibrant months of the year.

 

If you’re trying to renovate a house, finalize legal paperwork, or navigate French bureaucracy, however, don’t be surprised if someone smiles politely and says, “Let’s do it in September.”